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Refinance Break-Even Calculator

Find the month your refinance pays for itself: monthly savings vs closing costs, plus the honest lifetime interest comparison.

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Quick answer

Break-even = closing costs ÷ monthly savings. If refinancing saves $180/month and costs $5,400 to close, you break even in 30 months, refinance only if you will keep the loan longer than that.

Typically 2–5% of the balance.

Break-even
1 year 3 months
Keep the loan at least this long.
Monthly saving
$348.60
Current payment
$1,847.48
New payment
$1,498.88
Lifetime result
$9,647.91
Total interest difference minus closing costs. Negative means the longer term costs more overall despite the lower payment.

Formulas last verified 2026-10-10. Results are estimates, not financial advice. How we calculate.

The two numbers that decide a refinance

Every refinance decision reduces to a pair of questions this calculator answers directly:

  1. How many months until the savings repay the costs? Below your expected time in the home → proceed to question two. Beyond it → stop; the refinance is a loss regardless of how good the new rate sounds.
  2. What happens over the whole life? Monthly savings × remaining months, against closing costs and any term extension. This is the number that catches the payment-lowering, interest-raising refi.

Worked example

$250,000 remaining at 7.5% with 25 years left: payment $1,847. Refinance to 6% for a new 30-year term with $5,000 costs: new payment $1,499, $348/month saved, break-even in 15 months. But the lifetime line shows the catch: the fresh 30-year term pays $289,595 of interest versus $304,214 remaining on the old loan, a genuine saving here, though far smaller than $348 × 360 would suggest. Change the inputs slightly and that lifetime line flips negative while the monthly line stays green; that is exactly the trap this page exists to expose.

Term reset: the quiet cost

Refinancing 5 years into a 30-year loan onto a new 30-year loan means paying 35 years in total. The cleanest fix is to refinance into a term matching what you had left, many lenders offer custom terms (25, 22, even 18 years) on request. Failing that, take the 30-year and voluntarily pay the old, higher payment: the extra goes to principal and the reset largely cancels. The early payoff calculator shows what that discipline is worth.

When not to bother

  • You are likely to move soon. Break-even months only count if you are still there to collect them.
  • You are deep into the loan. Late-term payments are mostly principal; a rate cut has little interest left to save, while the term reset restarts the interest-heavy years.
  • The improvement is marginal. A 0.25% cut rarely survives its own closing costs. Consider points at purchase time, or a recast if the rate is fine and the payment is the issue.

Frequently asked questions

How is the break-even month calculated?

Break-even = closing costs ÷ monthly savings. If refinancing costs $5,000 and cuts the payment by $180, break-even is 28 months. Keep the loan longer than that and the refinance is ahead; sell or refinance again sooner and it lost money.

What does refinancing actually cost?

Typically 2–5% of the balance: origination fees, appraisal, title insurance, recording. "No-closing-cost" refinances exist but bury the cost in a higher rate or a larger balance, the cost is real either way, and the break-even math should use it.

Why can a refinance with a lower payment still cost more overall?

Because resetting a 25-year-remaining loan to a fresh 30-year term adds five years of interest. The monthly saving is real; the lifetime figure can still be negative. This calculator shows both numbers because judging a refi on the payment alone is the classic mistake.

How big a rate drop justifies refinancing?

The old "1% rule" is a crude proxy for this exact calculation. The honest answer depends on your balance, costs and how long you will stay: on a large balance, 0.5% can clear break-even in two years; on a small one, even 1.5% may never pay back the costs. Run your numbers rather than the folklore.

Should I refinance into a shorter term instead?

If the payment fits, refinancing a 30-year into a 15-year at a lower rate attacks interest from both directions. The monthly payment often rises, so there is no break-even month in the usual sense, judge it on the lifetime interest comparison this calculator prints.

Would a recast be enough instead?

If your problem is wanting a lower payment while your existing rate is good, and you have a lump sum, a recast achieves that for a $250-ish fee instead of thousands in closing costs. Refinancing is for when the rate itself is the problem.

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